Brooklyn Pizza 101

Guest Blogger- Sister Marinara

So my darling older brother asked me to add a touch of Brooklyn to his blog while he’s away in a Mediterranean paradise. Of course I’m happy to oblige, and the topic of today’s discussion is my favorite Brooklyn Pizza, or Pie.

I first point to a newbie, but also one of the best pies I’ve had in New York proper. It is called Lucali (pictured above), and lucky for me, it is located one neighborhood away from my apartment. It isn’t one of the venerable coal-oven pizzerias, but the wood-fired oven does a pizza connoisseur proud. The owner and pizzaiolo, Mark Iacono, takes his cues from the legendary “Old Man” Dom Demarco of Defara’s Pizza in Midwood (I will address soon). He makes each pie himself, working in a zen-like state, no matter the number of drooling patrons. Each topping is hand sliced on a mandolin directly onto the pie, and it is cooked to a beautiful char each time. This no-reservation, BYO joint frequently has quite the queue to get in, but if you catch it on a good night, it is without a doubt one of the most pleasurable meals you can have.

On to DeFara’s, located in Midwood. I am comfortable saying it is the best pizza I’ve ever had, but there is a price to pay. Dom makes each pie by himself, slicing toppings and shredding cheese to order. When the pie comes out of the traditional gas oven, it is topped with hand grated grana padano and basil and oregano snipped fresh from the plant sitting in the window. DeFara’s location and popularity can make it an investment in time, patience and grumbling tummies. Unless you go 30 minutes before they close up, you could be in for a 1-2 hour wait and potentially crazy customers. Dom is also getting up there in years, he may have already crossed the 80-year mark, and occasionally the pie waits a minute or two too long in the oven. But once you take your first bite, all is forgiven. I highly recommend the pricey baby artichoke pie.

Next, just a short ride from the Old Man, is a place in Bensonhurst called L&B Spumoni Gardens. It is a bit of a circus, with a Spumoni counter, take out red-sauce italian, sit-down restaurant and pizza joint all in one big bang. Top that with the year round out-door seating area full of your classic brooklyn “goombas” and you can’t beat this spot. But wait, the pie! It is a square pie, with the mozz UNDER the sauce, and topped with grated parm. I really think they put crack in the dough. It is awesome. A definite do not miss.

If you’re heading to Coney Island, the next top pizzeria is Totonnos on Neptune Avenue. Totonnos has been around since 1924 and uses one of a handful of coal-ovens in New York. The pie is more than great, but it really is part of the whole package—including the aging waitress who will refuse to sell you a pie if you order too many toppings. The truth is she’s right. The pie is so good, more than 2 toppings is a bit sacrilegious. So go, ride the Cyclone, and eat some killer pepperoni pizza.

Some of you may be saying, “Okay, you can’t forget Grimaldi’s”...As one of New York’s oldest pizzerias, with a coal-oven no less, Grimaldi’s has a great product. But the constant barrage of tourists make it one of toughest places to enjoy. And the mean eastern europeans who run the place can be a little intimidating. So here’s my advice, call ahead and get the pie to go. Walk down to the nearby Brooklyn Bridge Park and enjoy your pizza with one of the best views of New York City. When you’re done, top it off with super-duper creamy ice cream from Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. If you feel guilty for your caloric overload, take a stroll across the Brooklyn Bridge—it’s a mile each way!

I’d like to end this doughy, cheesy homage with a shout out to all the local slice joints that make Brooklyn, and all of New York, a great pizza town. They might not compare to the above-mentioned establishments, but when it’s late, or cold, or you’re tired or a little drunk, they put out some of the best pizza you’ve ever had. (My personal thanks to Mark’s Pizza.)