When the Moon Hit My Eyes at Lucali's

I find one of the most challenging decisions in NYC is where to dine. On one hand you have all of these amazing high-end restaurants with world-renown chefs. On the other hand, you have amazing cheap ethnic food. And then there is the pizza. So my recent trip up there involved some decision making. Based on finances and flexibility and my sister’s wonderful post a month ago, we decided on pizza. I suggested the “old man” but she was concerned about the wait. She instead pointed me to Lucali’s. While I may never know taste the wonderful craft of the Old Man, I can say that I had a wonderful experience and a magical pizza at Lucali’s.




















I often don’t discuss service when talking about a restaurant unless there is something out of the ordinary. The staff at Lucali’s was especially cool to us that night. We had a really long, frustrating drive from RVA and it was pushing 9 PM when we were finally on the George Washington Bridge heading into Brooklyn. Anyway, they let you call in and place your name on the wait list. So we called while on the bridge and they actually had seating at the moment. We left no name and said that we would see them in a few minutes. 15 minutes later, there were people waiting, but we had a table. They saved it for us.


The restaurant itself is very similar to many of the fan restaurants here in RVA, classic row house, pressed tin ceilings, glass store-front. The one big difference was that the tables only made up half of the room (maybe 15 at the most) and there was no bar. The entire back-half of the restaurant was an open kitchen with a brick-oven. The room had very dim lighting that was accentuated by the small candles on the table. The combination of the lighting and the lively conversations surrounding us made for a very surreal experience.




















The menu at Lucali’s is very simple. You can have pizza and you can have a calzone. There are a handful of toppings but those might change on a daily basis. There are also a handful of bottled soda pops. The restaurant is BYOB, and gee I wish there were some BYOB places here in RVA.




















We ordered a pepperoni pie and a mushroom pie. They served us the pies one at a time. I am not sure if this was due to the size limitation of the table or the timing in the kitchen, I just remember liking that they did it. So yes, the pizza was wonderful. The crust was delightfully light, airy and crisp. There was a light char on it, but it provided a nice flavor. The sauce was simple and elegant. The tomatoes were bright and cheery and there was no overwhelming salt or sugar flavor. The cheese seemed to be a mixture of fresh and shredded mozzarella. And while the toppings provided the accents to the pizzas, they didn’t dominate it the way they often do. Between the four of us there, we finished off the 2 pies (four slices each) and each one of us left content but not stuffed. It was that light.




















The price on the pies was a bit steep. Each one was $24 plus toppings, but I didn’t feel that it outweighed the experience. As I am writing this, I just want to get back there.


I want to give special thanks to the staff at the Paupered Chef. Mrs. Marinara would not let me take any photos due to the lighting. She thought it would be too obvious. Anyway, the Paupered Chef was gracious enough to let me borrow their images. Please check out their review of Lucali’s when you get a chance.

Try Our Donuts...So You Don't Go Nuts

-NoVA correspondent Dogburt

When you think of donuts, you generally think of two places - the timeless Dunkin' Donuts, and the only place that would ever think of combining a donut with a hamburger, Krispy Kreme. For me, I always liked the fact that Dunkin's donuts were solid if unspectacular, and they also had the benefit of decent coffee and other breakfasty type foods. Krispy Kreme's one strength - the glowing sign - meant that magic was about to happen. I recall in my pre-Krispy Kreme life driving through Charlottesville with Mr. Marinara one late night, and we drove by a Krispy Kreme when the sign as lit up. "We're stopping here," said he. "Why?" "Because the sign is lit." "So what? What does that mean?" "It means we are stopping." The discussion ended there, and frankly, what more is there to say?

So recently a small chain came onto my radar known as The Fractured Prune. Originally started in Ocean City, MD, it has now branched out to about 22 locations, with two within reasonable driving distance of my abode. When they finally opened, we were there for the opening pitch.

The interior is small and definitely kid-oriented with a hint of 1950's soda shop. There are murals on the walls and flat screens playing Spongebob. While the limits of seating might compel you to get your order to go, I would urge you to consider at least staying to eat one donut right as it comes off the assembly line, because you can never recapture that sense of fresh wonderment.

Fractured Prune donuts are cake-style (generally speaking there are two types of donuts - yeast-raised and cake). They are small, extremely rich in flavor, and made to order. You will have to wait a little longer than if you just rolled up to Dunkin' Donuts, but the wait is rewarded.

You can select from an assortment of pre-designed donuts, or you can create your own. In our home joint, local radio celebs The Junkies have donuts named after each personality. If I do one thing of substance while I live in VA, I would hope that it garnishes enough public praise to earn the right to name a donut after me.

The types of flavors are everything under the sun, and some things that you would never expect. But each one has its own special place in our hearts, if not our tummies. Even the Plain Jane, no frills donut is crafted well. Light and crisp on the outside, soft and cakey on the inside, it is a stellar compliment to a good cup of Joe and excellent for dunking, as it has both high retention (from the doughy middle) as well as high anti-drip performance (from the crisp outside).

Fractured Prune donuts are a completely different experience from other famed donut eateries. So save yourself from Donut Hell, prepare to be treated well, and consider ordering some salad for later.

Fractured Prune NoVA locations
23520 Overland Drive
Suite 152
Dulles, VA 20166
Phone: (703) 661-5050

3073 Nutley Street
Fairfax, VA 22031
Pan Am Shopping Center
Phone: (703) 280-0415

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Exit question - how rich do you need to be to justify buying your own donut hopper?

Brooklyn Pizza 101

Guest Blogger- Sister Marinara

So my darling older brother asked me to add a touch of Brooklyn to his blog while he’s away in a Mediterranean paradise. Of course I’m happy to oblige, and the topic of today’s discussion is my favorite Brooklyn Pizza, or Pie.

I first point to a newbie, but also one of the best pies I’ve had in New York proper. It is called Lucali (pictured above), and lucky for me, it is located one neighborhood away from my apartment. It isn’t one of the venerable coal-oven pizzerias, but the wood-fired oven does a pizza connoisseur proud. The owner and pizzaiolo, Mark Iacono, takes his cues from the legendary “Old Man” Dom Demarco of Defara’s Pizza in Midwood (I will address soon). He makes each pie himself, working in a zen-like state, no matter the number of drooling patrons. Each topping is hand sliced on a mandolin directly onto the pie, and it is cooked to a beautiful char each time. This no-reservation, BYO joint frequently has quite the queue to get in, but if you catch it on a good night, it is without a doubt one of the most pleasurable meals you can have.

On to DeFara’s, located in Midwood. I am comfortable saying it is the best pizza I’ve ever had, but there is a price to pay. Dom makes each pie by himself, slicing toppings and shredding cheese to order. When the pie comes out of the traditional gas oven, it is topped with hand grated grana padano and basil and oregano snipped fresh from the plant sitting in the window. DeFara’s location and popularity can make it an investment in time, patience and grumbling tummies. Unless you go 30 minutes before they close up, you could be in for a 1-2 hour wait and potentially crazy customers. Dom is also getting up there in years, he may have already crossed the 80-year mark, and occasionally the pie waits a minute or two too long in the oven. But once you take your first bite, all is forgiven. I highly recommend the pricey baby artichoke pie.

Next, just a short ride from the Old Man, is a place in Bensonhurst called L&B Spumoni Gardens. It is a bit of a circus, with a Spumoni counter, take out red-sauce italian, sit-down restaurant and pizza joint all in one big bang. Top that with the year round out-door seating area full of your classic brooklyn “goombas” and you can’t beat this spot. But wait, the pie! It is a square pie, with the mozz UNDER the sauce, and topped with grated parm. I really think they put crack in the dough. It is awesome. A definite do not miss.

If you’re heading to Coney Island, the next top pizzeria is Totonnos on Neptune Avenue. Totonnos has been around since 1924 and uses one of a handful of coal-ovens in New York. The pie is more than great, but it really is part of the whole package—including the aging waitress who will refuse to sell you a pie if you order too many toppings. The truth is she’s right. The pie is so good, more than 2 toppings is a bit sacrilegious. So go, ride the Cyclone, and eat some killer pepperoni pizza.

Some of you may be saying, “Okay, you can’t forget Grimaldi’s”...As one of New York’s oldest pizzerias, with a coal-oven no less, Grimaldi’s has a great product. But the constant barrage of tourists make it one of toughest places to enjoy. And the mean eastern europeans who run the place can be a little intimidating. So here’s my advice, call ahead and get the pie to go. Walk down to the nearby Brooklyn Bridge Park and enjoy your pizza with one of the best views of New York City. When you’re done, top it off with super-duper creamy ice cream from Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. If you feel guilty for your caloric overload, take a stroll across the Brooklyn Bridge—it’s a mile each way!

I’d like to end this doughy, cheesy homage with a shout out to all the local slice joints that make Brooklyn, and all of New York, a great pizza town. They might not compare to the above-mentioned establishments, but when it’s late, or cold, or you’re tired or a little drunk, they put out some of the best pizza you’ve ever had. (My personal thanks to Mark’s Pizza.)

Of Prosciutto and Pizza

-NoVA correspondent Dogburt

Devoted readers of The Marinara (and Mr. Bassett), in case you aren't already aware, the suburban sprawl is the mortal enemy of "The Sauce."** When you have to exist in this culinary temperate zone that goes on for miles and offers a never ending supply of Starbucks and Chili's (but to be sure, always revere the Dundees), there is high potential for your taste buds to become dulled. That is not to say you can't find pockets of sunlight or admit to enjoying the occasional chicken fried steak, free from the ire of your peers. The fact is, the proliferation of this ready-made food introduces a high level of sodium and sugar that weakens our ability to identify true gravitas in our cuisine.

This is all prelude to alerting you that when I find a place in NoVA that is not a TGI-chain-linked fence that keeps out culinary enjoyment, I will do my best to inform you that cooking chivalry is not yet dead. And so today I bring you two that I have found in the course of my daily living.

Cafe Antonios

If you live outside the Beltway, you might be familiar with the small suburb of Herndon, VA. It is an older area, one which more contemporary and wealthy communities were built around. That reality can cut both ways, but one positive is that it has retained a reasonable amount of restaurants and shops that are still owned locally. Sure, they're a little less polished than your 21st century McDonalds, but I'm at the point in my ever-increasingly jaded life where that's a positive sign, not a negative one.

To be sure, Antonios exists in a K-Mart plaza, and is part of a small shopping island. It is small and non-descript, but local reviews were positive so I took with me my lady and we checked it out. Inside, the dining area is not more than about 1000 square feet, with a bar area taking up a corner and most likely the kitchen in the back taking up an equal amount. It fits maybe 30 tables, and we were fortunate to beat the dinner rush. To the best of my knowledge, we were greeted at the door by the owner of the restaurant, who was constantly tending to every patron in the restaurant.

Regrettably, our dinner had time constraints on it, so we were not able to indulge in the full experience. My wife decided on a lobster bisque and salad. As for me though, I was a bit overwhelmed with the menu. For such a small place, the choices are vast. The categories are pastas, chicken, veal, and fish. Since the place is renowned for its veal, and as a rule of thumb I always try to at least for the first time order the one thing the restaurant is known for doing best, I defaulted to this part of the menu. Even then, the choices were daunting. But then, what was that? It was something called "Veal Bomba," described as: "Veal stuffed with prosciutto, fontina, parmesan, and asiago cheese, dressed in mushroom red wine sauce."

Prosciutto? In the veal? Oh gosh yes.

And it was amazing.

Because of my wife's and my general malaise toward NoVA dining, it is rare that she is surprised at a new venue. But I got a "good choice, my man," and that's how I knew that we would be returning soon to enjoy Antonio's once again.

Cafe Antonios
454 Elden Street
Herndon, VA 20170
Get Directions(703) 437-3307

Fireworks Pizza

Pizza. Seems easy, right? It's basically just bread, sauce, and cheese. So why is it that so many restaurants do it so poorly? I have elevated myself to what I would probably proclaim as a "pizza snob" since I've lived in NoVA. And it isn't because there is so much great pizza here. It is because there is so little. But when you find spots that really work hard to do it well, this simple dish imbues you. I daresay it creates a paradigm shift and you can never call 1-800-Dominoes again.

And so the hunt for great pizza has taken me far and wide across the continental U.S. As Mr. Marinara once uttered for time immortal, "I'm always hungry for great pizza." Yes, yes. That is it exactly. You find great pizza, you crave it regardless of time of day.

So did I find some? Early polling says, "Yes." As I mentioned earlier, Herndon is an older and mostly preserved community in NoVA. Downtown historic Leesburg is another. It practically feels like a different state, yet is only about 35 miles outside of the epicenter of the free world.

My wife, daughter and I were alerted to Fireworks Pizza, whose specialty is wood-fired pizza. Like Antonios, it was small on the inside, and focuses almost exclusively on the magical pizza dish. The aroma of real firewood and smoke soaks into your pores. The wait was agonizing. What we quickly learned was that we were attending on the same evening as a local high school's homecoming dance. Lined up were young men in ill-fitting suits hanging on to frigid debutantes wearing strapless gowns in the 45 degree evening autumn air. But the fact was, they were HERE, waiting next to me in my jeans and sweatshirt. That should tell you something.

When it was our turn, service was prompt in all regards. For appetizer, we ordered bruschettas on ciabatta toast, covered in either mediterranian eggplant and olives or tomato jam and mozzarella. The combination of the flavors was astounding. It was a wonderful contrast of salty (olives) and sweet (tomato jam). They did not last long.

For our pizza, we ordered my standby - the classic margherita. Bad pizza can sometimes be covered up with good toppings, so if I want to get a true gauge of their craft, I keep it as minimal as possible. Light sauce, fresh mozzarella, fresh basil, roma tomatoes, drizzled with EVOO. This is my basis for all comparison.

I'm pleased to say that Fireworks indulged my demands without exception. The crust was very thin, crunchy on the outside but chewy on the inside, and full of flavor. the scent of fresh basil mixed with the scent of the smoke was most appealing. But what really made their pizza sing was their roma tomatoes, which were so sweet to the taste you would swear that they were glazed in sugar.

We left victorious, knowing we had found another hidden treasure, horded by locals, and ignored by people calling Papa.

That night I dreamt of tomatoes and basil leaves...

Fireworks Pizza
201 Harrison St. SE
Leesburg, VA 20175
703.779.8400
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**"The Sauce" is a figurative concept as well as a literal one. It could mean -actual- sauce that goes along with your chicken parm or linguini with mussels, but it can also mean that indefinable authenticity of a home made piece of mouth-watering bliss. It is cooked and served with love, each and every time. The source of my terminology dates back to college, when myself and several other guys opted to spend a weekend at Mr. Marinara's homestead, and the Matron Marinara had prepared "The Sauce," which in this case actually was sauce. The aroma pulled us into the kitchen, and it wasn't but a few minutes that we all bowed in humility to The Sauce, and had to stop one hippie-haired brother from stripping down and taking a dip in it. It beckoned us like the Sirens' call to Odysseus.

If You're Ever in Boston ...

Although maybe not totally relevant to most of you, since I live in Boston and this blog is dead, I figured I would give you some tips on favorite local places to check out should you ever come to Boston.

Favorite Bahh to Watch the Sawhx: Cask n Flagon -- There's no choice! Right next to Fenway and recently re-done, the place is great, the food is solid, and for out of town games or football, it's easy to find a seat and parking spot.

Favorite Steak Place: Bonfire -- 300+ day corn-fed beef? Jackpot!! Chef Todd English is becoming world reknowned and his steak place in the Park Plaza is one of my favorites in the city. Everything I've had is good, but the skirt steak is one of my favorites.

Favorite Celeb Chef Place: Blue Ginger -- Ming Tsai's Blue Ginger out in the posh suburb of Welleseley (also the town where budding fashionista Gretta Cole got her start) is beyond compare. For around $30-40 a plate, it's not overly (by Boston standards) expensive. The menu changes regularly and the town itself is very cute and worth a stroll if you have to wait for seating. The desserts there are fantastic, but if you are looking to save some coin and go around the corner to Truly Yogurt and try the Black Raspberry Chip Yogurt. Best. Yogurt. Ever.

Favorite Italian: I've never been to the same place twice, and I've never been disappointed anywhere. Go to the North End early, walk down Hanover Street, find a place that has seating and is in your price range. Enjoy.

Favorite Seafood Place Not Named Legal: The No Name -- I'm not a big seafood fan, so asking me this is like asking Mr. Marinara about being manly. Other than Woodman's of Essex, I don't get amped up too much about seafood in the city or Boston area. If you go to the No Name, GO EARLY ON WEEKENDS, the line gets HORRENDOUS and you can't bring your own beer (my aunt tells times when she and college friends brought a keg) to drink while waiting in line like you used to.

Favorite Tapas: Tasca -- The line gets long on weekends, so if you plan to go get a reservation (4 or more) because you'll still have to wait. The duck confit, tenderloin meatballs, croquettes, beef carpaccio and mussels are great to name a few. If it looks good to you, it probably is. Their desserts are amazing, I once had a creme brulee with orange zest that was one of the best I've ever tasted.

Favorite Cheap Eats: Dok Bua -- I'm a big fan of Southeast Asian cuisine, and I've still not been to the haute Elephant Walk which might be a sacrilege, but for good simple Thai food, Dok Bua in the Brookline neighborhood of Coolidge Corner (predominantly Jewish Eastern European historically) is one of the best in the area. For less than $10 bucks at dinner you can enjoy a full meal with Thai standards (Pad Thai, Pad See Ew, curries, etc) with spring rolls, rice, fried dumplings and a soup (I always substitute for their excellent Tom Kha Gai). Wash it down with some red Thai Iced Tea with the condensed milk? YUM!!!!!

Favorite Beacon Hill Yuppie Bar: Beacon Hill Bistro -- Beacon Hill is one of the most expensive areas in the city, it's also one of the oldest, which combines for interesting stores, architecture and people. Go after the work crown dies down a bit, but make friends with the bartender and ask him/her about some of their specialty drinks. You won't be disappointed.

Favorite Brunch Place: The Paramount -- Since Bob the Chef's was sold (it brings be to tears to think about) the Paramount it is. Bring good company, the line is always out the door, but it's always moving. This trendy bistro in the evening serves up one of the best brunches in the city. Wait in line, order at the grill in the back, wait in line, pay for your breakfast at the register, find a table, feast ravenously on belgian waffles, huge pieces of bacon, or delicious omellettes and enjoy.

Favorite Romantic Spots: The Hungry I -- Tiny, unassuming from the outside and same on the inside, the I has one of the best romantic patios in the city. It's not big, there's no view but it's vine-covered and cute go during warm months and get a reservation .. off hours are best to get a spot on the patio. Afterwards, walk the Esplinade for a romantic walk and view of the Charles river and Cambridge. For another romantic spot, go to The Top of the Hub in the Prudential Building (or 'Pru'). The food isn't great, but the view is world-class, so go for drinks after the dinner crown settles down (9 is good on a weeknight) get a drink and have the warm-baked cookies dessert (nothing's great there, but this is their most generous portion)

The Challenge of the Pit, and an Introduction

- by Northern VA correspondent, Dogburt

Greetings, fair readers. I am your humble guest-blogger while Mr. Marinara gallivants around Greece, eating taste morsels and screaming, "Μολὼν λαβέ!" while plunging through the Hot Gates. I have had the privilege of knowing your host for about 15 years now, and he has seasoned and seared my culinary tastes over that time. There are two things you should know - Mr. Sadler once absolutely wrecked me with an experimental serving of venison chili; and if I have a choice between dining out at a five star restaurant and dining at casa de Sadler, I take the latter.

I currently reside in Northern Virginia, so hopefully I can offer some perspective on the local cuisine here, as well as offer information on my personal obsession, espresso. But for today, I want to do a quick review on a new restaurant that just opened in Ashburn, Bluz Brothers BBQ and Grill. I took the family there on Sunday for lunch, and we learned that they had been open but a few short weeks. The exterior is still being decorated, and I soon learned from the manager that they were rolling it out slowly so as not to get slammed with heavy traffic too quickly.

I cannot boast of any standard qualification for recognizing good BBQ. My soul basis for comparison is one particular reptilian biker bar in upstate NY. But like Justice Potter Stewart once said (I think), I shall not attempt to define what good BBQ is, but I know it when I taste it.

The meal began with a complimentary appetizer of home made potato chips served with some sort of ranch dip. If you like your chips nice and thick with a little bit of chewiness, then this was spot on.

We ordered several platters that contained:

Open faced pulled pork sandwich
Open faced brisket sandwich
corn bread
hush puppies
fried okra
collard greens
mac & cheese

The sides were hit or miss. The corn bread and hush puppies were dry, which was troubling since we got there as soon as the place opened. You would think that they would have just come out of the oven. However, the okra and greens were very good. The fried okra had a light batter on it that made it extra crunchy, and in the greens you could really taste the ham with which it had been prepared. The mac & cheese was surprisingly good. I don't know about you, but I personally think good mac & cheese is one of those things that seems easy in theory, but difficult in application. Too often the explosion of a good cheese is simply not there. However, this one was solid and my young daughter gobbled it up.

As for the entrees, I would give a thumbs up on the pork, thumbs in the middle for the brisket. The brisket was somewhat dry and chewy, regardless of what you added to it. Also there was a bit too much fat on it for it to be a winner. The pork, however, was very solid. Tender, juicy and flavorful, it mixed well either just by itself, or with the various assortment of sauces that they make in-house. Home made sauces get bonus points from me, as it is easy to simply purchase them and nobody would be the wiser. Taking the time to make it requires commitment to the end product. I would probably classify the overall style as most similar to either Memphis or East Texas.

Good BBQ is simply hard to find, especially when you live in a metropolitan area where the focus is often on speed and stature. Good BBQ does not lend itself well to either. Good BBQ takes time and patience, and you can't be afraid to get messy. Bluz Brothers is on the right trail, because they want to do the BBQ the right way. As long as they can maintain their focus on doing the basics well, this should be a spot that has staying power. I will definitely be visiting again.

Bluz Brothers BBQ and Grill
43150 Broadlands Center Plaza, Suite 194
Broadlands, Virginia
(703) 858-9499

Cowboy UP! @ Rays

Believe it or not, my sister and brother-in-law are the real foodies in the family. So when they make it a priority to check a place out, it is usually worth my while to follow them up. They were traveling between Richmond and their home in Brooklyn, and they made a stop at Rays the Steaks in Arlington, VA near the Courthouse Metro stop, and after hearing about it, I knew I had to check it out. So when I happened to be in the area on Saturday, and felt like I should take advantage of the opportunity.

The place is snuggled in a small strip mall and it was packed. I was fortunate to find seating but that was probably based on the fact that there were only two of us. The space was very minimal: white walls, little decor, soft lighting, and tight seating. The menus were paper. This to me was a good sign. Packed house with no atmosphere means good food.

My suspicions were correct. I started the evening with an appetizer of blackened scallops. The dish was two large scallops perfectly cooked on each side. There was enough spice on each side to give it very tasty crust. I then followed it up with an iceberg salad with applewood smoked bacon and blue cheese. Again this was wonderful, especially with the generous amounts of bacon. Dinner was a hard choice. I heard the hanger steak was the way to go, but I was finding myself forced to choose between the cowboy steak and the Brazilian pichana. My partner in crime convinced me to stick with the cowboy steak. My compromise was that I received a side of the chimchurri sauce. The steak was nice and charred on the outside and red and wonderful on the inside. The chimchurri had a perfect spice to it, and the horseradish sauce was also great with its creamy kick. We complimented the meal with an old vine zinfandel.

If I had any complaint with the evening, it was the service. I knew from other people that I would feel rushed. I just didn't like getting my steak while I was still eating my salad. To me this was a minor concession for such good food. And trust me, I hope to be back again in the near future.